What a Wonderful Year!

Well, one year into my Peace Corps adventure, I can truly say I’ve fallen in love with Ethiopia.  The people, culture, food, scenery; it is all so beautiful and incredible.  And I think perhaps injera (the national food, a spongy pancake like food you use to pick up different “wots” aka stews, lentils, etc.. and eat them with your right hand) has an addictive quality, as it feels “off” if I don’t eat it for at least one meal a day!  It is made from t’ef, a highly nutritious and TINY grain. After 12 months in Ethiopia, I feel like I truly belong here.

An evening of coffee with my wonderful landlady, Zenebech.

Well, what have I learned this past year? I have learned so much that it is hard to know where to start. It really is nearly impossible to put this experience into words, it has been so powerful, challenging, exciting and rewarding at the same time.

Scenes such as seeing a man carry a sheep on his shoulders, or seeing someone balancing dozens of injera on their head as they walk down the street have become commonplace.  My 4x6 meter room feels like home, and washing clothes by hands has become a rather soothing and meditative activity.

Life here is so beautiful, yet as I look around me life is so very difficult.  Grains are bought at the market, after families in the rural areas spend weeks and months of hard work plowing with oxen, and harvesting by hand.  Then the grains are dried in the sun, sifted and sorted, and then either ground or roasted, based on what the desired product is.  Grass grows very tall during the rainy season (about June-September), and then it is all cut BY HAND using a sickle, and then bundles and sold, to use as animal feed or to cover the dirt floors in houses, or as a decoration during coffee ceremonies. Tree branches, wood, grass, hay, and more, are all carried on people’s backs each morning, as the sun is rising and the fog is settling in Mezezo..  I see this each morning as I run along the dirt road in Mezezo, greeting the people I pass and looking at them in awe and with much respect. Food is prepared using charcoal.  I think a new joke should be how many foreigners does it take to start a charcoal stove? The answer is at least 8; at a Thanksgiving celebration with several volunteers the power was out, and so we prepared all the food using charcoal stoves, and after a good 30 minutes we pushed aside our pride and asked the neighbor, who like a pro graciously started the fire for us.  

Highlights of my time here include the smallest interactions that really make a lasting impact.  Hearing children yelling “Hana, Hana” as I walk down the road (including about a 2 year old baby, which is absolutely priceless), singing the “Hokey Pokey” with the English club that I help lead as we all are smiling and laughing, listening to Adele’s new album with my best friend Hibist and humming along, and evenings spent without power drinking coffee by candlelight with my compound family, making turkey hands with students and having them explain in English what things they are thankful for, explaining to the Health Center staff what a zucchini is (they grew well in the garden)and how to cook them.  These experiences are ones I will never forget, and my family and friends in Mezezo have already had a lasting impact on me and teach me so very much each day.  Running in the Great Ethiopian Run, the largest road race in Africa was another great memory from the past year.

English Club!

Our Thanksgiving dinner, prepared on charcoal stoves; beets and carrots, mashed sweet potatoes and cabbage!

The Great Ethiopian Run start line!

Related to work, one of the most rewarding experiences has been helping to lead Grassroot Soccer, a curriculum designed to teach HIV/AIDS education through sports and games.  At the high school, with groups of 30 students, my counterpart Aman and I teach the students for 1-2 hours a day.  It is incredible to see them come out of their shyness and speak up about the topic, and stay after to play soccer together.  We do team cheers, funny “ice breaker activities”, and if we need comic relief I will show them my attempt at Ethiopian dance (for reference google Ethiopian Amhara Region dancing; it is all about the shoulders..)  HIV/AIDS is such an important topic to discuss, but it can be a difficult topic to address and through Grassroot Soccer, we are able to cross the bridge of stigma and address the difficult topic and hopefully share lasting knowledge to the students.

Using Grassroot Soccer to teach about HIV/AIDS at the primary school.

Teaching Grassroot Soccer with my counterpart, Aman.

Some of the English club members reading a Children's book
(very special for them, because Children's books do not exist here)

I originally was going to write a “Day in the Life” article, but then I realized that would be impossible. Each day here is unpredictable, equal parts challenging and rewarding.  I have learned though that everything always works out, and it is important to not try and ensure that it does, simply let it happen.  Do not panic if you are two minutes late to meet the students, or if you do not have the right materials (the Health Center staff proved this point by making a hand washing station for materials all found in the trash); take a step back, don’t be afraid to ask for help, and it will all work out.

I cannot believe I only have a little over a year left in Mezezo. It feels and is much too short.  I can’t think about leaving my family and friends here, so instead I will focus on the exciting plans ahead; continuing Grassroot Soccer, beginning nutrition classes for mothers at the Health Center, continuing with English Club for primary school students where songs like the “Hokey Pokey” and “Heads Shoulders Knees and Toes” leave us all laughing and smiling as we walk home, spontaneous opportunities to teach students or give health presentations at the Primary School, and last but not least show my friends how to make smores.

Hibist thoroughly enjoyed her first smore!

In Peace Corps there is a phrase that says we plant trees under whose shade we will never sit, meaning we generally won’t see the impact of the work that we do here. But on the other hand everyday I learn so many valuable lessons, meet great people who have ad continue to teach me so much and have wonderful conversations that will be with me forever and have so many memorable experiences that it is beyond worth it.  

My best friend Hibist and her dad Mamo, who is like my Ethiopian father!

My Ethiopian family who Love dearly!

World AIDS Day!

World AIDS Day

Flexibility is a key word in the Peace Corps, and in my opinion it is one of the characteristics required to be a volunteer.  Those of you who knew me pre-Peace Corps know that I was someone who liked to schedule things to the extreme, and I liked to stick to plans very strictly.  Flexibility was not one of my strong suits to say the least!! The past 11 months, little by little, I have learned to be flexible and to go with the flow, and it has been very valuable for me.

On a Wednesday morning I was doing laundry, finishing up several “loads” aka about two hours. Note: washing clothes by hands, once you’re used to it, becomes rather therapeutic and enjoyable.  Something about the repetition and being able to turn off your mind while you do it is rather soothing.  Although, I admit I may go back to using a washing machine in 2017J  As I finished up my laundry, I got a call from Bantayehu, my great counterpart and coworker, saying we were just appointed to go give a presentation at the Elementary School for the students, for World AIDS Day.  In the ten minutes following the phone call, I changed into my Grassroot Soccer t-shirt, gathered some materials including two tennis balls (from Grassroot Soccer Training), and met Bantayehu to go to the school.  Along with Aman, my counterpart from Grassroot Soccer Training, we planned and discussed while walking along the dirt road to the school. 

Upon our arrival, a bit of chaos ensued, as the students realized that Hannah, a “ferenji” aka foreigner had stepped foot onto the compound.  Students of all ages crowded around, greeting me, giggling and smiling, as we tried to get an icebreaker game started to entertain them until our lesson began.

As class let out for the morning shift (students here go to school for half days only), about 400-500 students gathered, and we presented about HIV/AIDS by using True/False questions for the students.  Then, we proceeded to select 20 students, 10 boys and 10 girls, and in the center of the mass of students, we played a game from the Grassroot Soccer Manual called “Find the Ball.”  Standing in two lines, facing each other, standing shoulder to shoulder and with their hands behind their lower backs, students passed a tennis ball from one student to the next, while students sang a song in the background.  When the song ended, each team would guess where the other team’s tennis ball was. The second time we played the game, the ball represented HIV. Both times that we played the game, neither team was able to successfully guess who had the tennis ball.  The message?  You cannot tell if a person has HIV/AIDS by looking at them.

Today was a wonderful reminder of the importance of flexibility, and it also was a great opportunity to start sharing the great knowledge and skills I learned in Grassroot Soccer.  Shout out to Aman and Bantayehu, in Mezezo, for leading this lesson and program today!

What is Grasssroot Soccer (GRS)?

Such a fun week!

I had the opportunity to spend four days in Addis, where I participated in a Grassroot Soccer Training called Peace Corps Skillz.  Fifteen Peace Corps volunteers from throughout the country met in Addis, and each brought one counterpart (a motivated person from their respective towns) to the training.  Together, this group of 30 people spent four days together learning about GRS and at the end of the training we all graduated as “Peace Corps SKILLZ Coaches”.  This means we are now equipped with the knowledge and skills to be able to carryout the GRS program in our own towns.

With a group of fellow volunteers!

One of our great coaches!

To set the stage, let me provide some background information about HIV/AIDS.  As of 2012, 34 million people were affected worldwide, and of that, 23.5 million were in Sub-Saharan Africa.  Looking specifically at Ethiopia, the HIV prevalence is 1.3% (.9% for males and 1.8% for females.  There are 1 million AIDS orphans in Ethiopia (note: AIDS orphan is defined as one parent passing away due to AIDS).

While the numbers can be shocking and overwhelming, some statistics are promising and show progress.  The number of people tested for HIV annually has increased from 40,000 in 2005 to 10 million by 2011.  In addition, the proportion of women aged 15-49 who received an HIV test in the last 12 months and who know the results has increased from just 1.9% in 2005 to 20% in 2011, and for men the increase was from 2.3% to 20.7%. 

Grassroot Soccer is helping to fight HIV/AIDS by providing knowledge and skills to youth ages 12-19 through familiar and fun games such as soccer, in a safe space with trained coaches.  GRS partners with many organizations, one of which is the Peace Corps.  It teaches about key behaviors that are driving the spread of HIV in Africa, which include unprotected sex, multiple sexual patners, older sexual partners, and gender-based violence.  GRS, along with its partners have provided education and prevention related to HIV and life skills to more than 700,000 youth since 2002, in 57 countries. 

Practicing one of the GRS activities with some volunteers!

PEACE

I am very excited to do this program at the secondary school in Mezezo, alongside Aman, my counterpart and coworker at the Health Center.  One GRS training/curriculum consists of 11, 60-minute lessons, and at the end there is a graduation where family and friends can come, and each student is praised and receives a certificate for completing the program.

Officially graduated as Skillz Coaches!

I had an incredible time at the GRS training in Addis, and now in Mezezo I have all of the materials I need; a Skillz Team t-shirt, 2 tennis balls, 12 cones, and 2 indestructible soccer balls (literally indestructible). The first round of students will graduate next week from the program, and we are all having a great time together, meeting each morning at the school for 2 hours!  Stay tuned for GRS updates from Mezezo! 

With Aman, my great counterpart from Mezezo!

All in a day: Making History and Cooking Zucchini

As I sit in my room writing this blog, night has fallen and I hear the howls and barks of dogs in the distance, and much closer, I can hear Zenebech, my compound mom, companion and friend, rhythmically grinding coffee by hand with a wooden mortar and metal pestle.  The rhythmical and repetitive sound is soothing, and reflects the start of an important nightly ritual in Ethiopian households.

These sounds have become very familiar to me as a part of my daily life in Mezezo.  where I have now lived for 7 months (which have flown by!). After being gone for about 3.5 weeks (1 week Peace Corps training in Bahir Dar in Northern Ethiopia, 2 weeks in the States with my family, then a few days in Addis for a meeting), it feels so great to be back.  I feel like I have returned home, with everyone giving me such warm welcomes, a lot of coffee, and great conversationsJ

             

This morning at the Health Center, it being a Monday morning, I needed a little bit of motivation to get me going for the week and so I decided to mention to a fellow worker at the Health Center that it would be neat if we could somehow build a “Tippy Tap” (a hand-washing station made from wood and nails and a jug of water).  In spite of its vital role in servicing the area’s wellness needs, the Health Center in Mezezo had absolutely no place for patients or staff to wash their hands. Bantayehu was very intrigued and we walked around the Health Center to the back of the compound, to where the town’s trash pile is located. We carefully navigated up a rocky hill, taking great care to avoid a green spiky plant called “sama,” which if touched causes a painful burning and itching sensation that does not quickly subside. Among the trash we discovered a lot of wood as well as a plastic jug called a “jerry can.” This is a good example of “one person’s trash is another person’s treasure!”  I wonder if that is even a phrase in Amharic. I am guessing it might not be, because recycling and repurposing trash is very common and hardly anything is ever thrown away or wasted!  The only other thing we needed was a saw, which another co-worker said they would bring after lunch. We went our separate ways for lunch and when we reconvened in the afternoon, the construction began!  As I am every day, I was extremely impressed with the resourcefulness that surrounded me!

Using a saw, my co-workers cut tree branches to be the foundation/legs of the tippy tap and another branch to go horizontally across the top.  Instead of using a shovel, the staff used a thick tree trunk as a hammer to whack the legs of the tippy tap into the ground, and then used a rock as hammer to put in the nails that held the tippy tap together.  The plastic jug that we found in the trash pile had no lid, but we found one on the other side of the Health Center compound, and after some deep cleaning it was ready to be put to good use! A nail was used to put a hole hear the bottom of the plastic jug, and when the lid was loosened and the nail was removed, the water flowed nicely in a thin but steady stream (thanks to some aspect of physics that I do not fully understand!), ideal for washing hands!  Some electrical wire that was stripped of its outer coating was used to hold up the soap container (which is the bottom of a plastic jug found in the trash), and some rope also found in the trash held up the jerry can/plastic jug containing the water.

By the end of that same day, for the first time ever, the Mezezo Health Center had a place for patients and staff to wash their hands (history being made!).  It felt great to admire the result of our labor, which provided a great sense of accomplishment, especially because it demonstrated so clearly the creativity of my Ethiopian co-workers who somehow took a mere idea and with remarkable speed and ingenuity, transformed it into a completed tangible reality!

Cutting and measuring wood for the base of the tippy tap. Notice the plastic jug in the foreground which will also be used.

"Hammering" in the posts!

Putting the final nails in to hold the foundation together, using a rock as a hammer.

Cutting a plastic jug found in the trash, to use as a soap container!

All smiles after the project is complete!

Proud of the final product!

If this project had been up to me to do alone, I would never have even begun, because I would still be hunting for the proper tools and materials that I thought were required for this project (and wouldn’t have found them here)!  This was a wonderful and valuable lesson for me, and a reminder of how much I learn from the people I am surrounded by every day in Mezezo; incredibly strong and inventive people who have become my family and friends, who I laugh with everyday, and whom I love!

A great crew!!!

The final product! (In the background you can see the latrines)

Testing out the newly made handwashing station/tippy tap!

As I left for the Health Center for the day on this Monday, five staff members were taking home zucchinis that were over a foot long a few inches in diameter; HUGE!! Side note: when I came back from vacation, pumpkins and zucchini had grown in my garden and there were plenty to share! There was some good conversation that probably was rather amusing to listen to, as I tried to explain to my coworkers, in Amharic, how to prepare and eat zucchini, a food they have never heard of, let alone seen!!  I’ll be eager to hear their reports J

Zucchini from the garden! (Note: they are bigger than they appear in the photo...)