A fish out of water

A fish out of water (and on top of a mountain)

That is how I felt for the past week, as I lived in Mezezo, a small rural town (2,220 people), at about (9,200 feet elevation, surrounded by rolling hills and beautiful green trees.  I am the first Peace Corps Volunteer to live in this town, and for a majority of the town, I am the first American they have ever seen, let alone known and lived among.  It is the first time in my life I’ve been not only the minority- but the only person of my ethnicity.  I can’t even put into words the kindness and hospitality of my counterpart (an Ethiopian man who was assigned by Peace Corps to be my mentor and help me in the process of integrating and getting familiar with the town) and the people of Mezezo.

I arrived to Mezezo after a 3.5 hour long bus ride, which included a 10 min pit stop to repair a tire, and a 20 minute lunch break where I managed (thanks to my counterpart) to literally run across town and purchase a mattress, pillow, sheets, and a plastic linoleum-like mat) and make it back to the bus for the last leg of our journey.  The last 15 km was intense to say the least, taking about 40 minutes as we climbed up a winding dirt and rock road (did I mention no guard rails?). After the thrill of this roller-coaster like, adrenaline-filled ride, I arrived with my bags, mattress and supplies in hand, after they were untied  from the roof of the bus.

From the bus we crossed the dirt road and my counterpart jumped a good stride length (keep in mind he is over 6 feet tall) across a large gap/hole to get to the rocky path to my house.  After seeing me staring at it for 30 seconds, and after drawing an impressive crowd of 30 kids, my counterpart informed me that for today, a kind six year old boy would show me the back way that wouldn’t involve a large leap of faith on stiff legs, a hungry stomach, and while carrying a backpacking backpack.

My counterpart and me at the health center!

I tell you this story because the next morning as I left my house (Jennie- I literally met my counterpart at 8:20: his idea), I found a wooden bridge build across the “gorge” (I shall refer to it as this from here on out for full effect)- and found out my counterpart asked a local to build a bridge for me, and he truly did sometime during the night.  Luckily other children and adults who live near me also benefit from the kindness of my counterpart! This is exhibit A of hospitality.  Exhibit B is that every meal I ate at a different person’s home, who doesn’t know me, but prepared a delicious meal, coffee ceremony, and had me in their home like family.

All week due to the new surroundings, language barrier, and meeting dozens of new people a day, I felt like a child being led here and there trying to do and say the right thing and not offend anyone, and making sure to properly greet each person I met.  It was extremely humbling to say the least.

I never lacked anything; water, food, and other supplies were brought to my door (of my studio-like apartment/room).  My room consists of a metal door, a window that opens and has a plastic covering, a dirt floor, and plenty of space for my belongings.  I am truly overwhelmed by how everyone in Mezezo took me in like family- when I offered to pay for the delicious meals that were prepared for me, I was firmly told it is Ethiopian culture to provide hospitality and payment would never be considered.  They truly are so hospitable and genuinely honored that I am here to learn about their culture. 

Visiting the high school one afternoon was quite the experience; with 2 minutes notice, I was told I should introduce myself and my work to the students (did I mention there were about 400 students gathered to listen to me on the lawn, wearing matching school uniforms, were curious looks on their faces?) Oh, and I had to introduce myself in Amharic, the national language of Ethiopia. I won’t forget that anytime soon! Or the time that later that day I also introduced myself in Amharic to about 300 elementary school students; this time with a  microphone.  My script is as follows: Hannah iballalahu, Amerikawit nan.  Ahun, Piskor wist ya t’ena bago fakadagna nan.  Hulat amat Mezezo inorallahu.  Minalbot, sila t’ena ka timert bet gar isarallahu.  Amasaganalo!  ( My name is Hannah, I am American.  I am a health volunteer with Peace Corps.  I will live in Mezezo for two years, and I will work with the school regarding health! Thanks you!

A view of the high school!

Moral of the story/of my week In Mezezo: The power of human connection is incredible.  Spending hours getting to know new people, talking and laughing, sharing a meal and buna (coffee); it made me realize how often I am rushing through life, focusing on my to do list, multi-tasking like a fiend, and through all this, I am missing a lot around me.  I am learning to truly take time to slow down, establish a new pace of life, and go with the flow.    The small things really do make a world of difference: like a group of young children shouting “Hana Hana!” as I leave my house in the morning, or one of the teenage girls from the high school recognizing me and coming to warmly greet me.

I enjoyed fresh honey for the first time, when I visited a farmer’s home, where he grows teff, barley and corn.  I was invited in for honey from their beehives- enjoying the sweet and sticky treat as the mother eagerly encouraged me to “Bi, bi!” (eat, eat!).  After a while, upon insisting I was full, they filled a bag with k’olo (a crunchy, barley/dried chick pea/peanut mixture) to put in my bag for later when I got hungry; Incredible people with such a giving and welcoming spirit!

There is one road in my town, and on either side there is a health center, two health posts (a small building where a lot of education and prevention work is done by the Health Extension workers), a police station, a telecom office, numerous small suks (stores that sell many random items), and homes.  It is a beautiful place, where people walk along the road, dressed in white and colorful scarves, carrying water on their backs, or eucalyptus sticks balanced on both shoulders, while children are laughing and playing with a soccerball made of plastic bags, or with a homemade “car:” a stick with a wheel attached to it.

The main road of Mezezo. See if you can spot the church, in the back, center of the photo, peeking up from the trees!

I couldn’t be happier to call Mezezo my new home for the next two years; I can’t wait to see the relationships and experiences that will come; stay tuned!

To all of you reading; thanks for following my journey; I couldn’t do this without your thoughts and support!