Zenebech making coffee in the evening. |
Zenebech never got the
opportunity to go to school, which unfortunately is a reality for may girls in
Ethiopia. In Ethiopia, there are more than one million primary school-aged who aren't in school.(www.planusa.org). Zenebech can’t read, which I didn’t realize until several months after I got
to Mezezo. She came to my room with a
fresh piece of injera (as she does every time when she makes injera) and a big
smile on her face, and asked if she could use my phone to call her son who
lives in Addis and who she hadn’t seen or talked to in years (since she doesn’t
have a phone). She brought a piece of
paper that had several names written on it in the Amharic script, with a phone
number next to each. She asked me which of the names read, “Kebede,” her son’s
name. As she called her son, I have
never seen her so happy; she simply lit up as she got to hear her son’s voice
for the first time in years.
When I’m working in my
room or cleaning, I put on Ethiopian music on a speaker, and several times I’ve
seen her smiling ear to ear, swaying and dancing. However, she is careful not to let the music interfere with her work of transforming wheat into flour, by grinding the wheat with a giant 4-foot tall mortar and pestle outside the house; she makes her tedious labor look so beautiful and graceful; the rhythmic grinding of wheat has come to be a soothing
sound. It’s moments like this that I won’t forget.
One evening several
weeks ago, a guest came over, and we were chatting in Amharic over coffee. The
guest asked Zenebech, “How is it having Hannah as a neighbor? Is she a good
neighbor?” Zenebech immediately replied: Hannah isn’t just my neighbor, “Ihite
nech”, which means “she is my sister”.
Zenebech helping me wash my "gabi"- a large blanket-like, cultural scarf |
In Zenebech I not
only have gained a sister and friend, but I have learned about strength, joy in the
simple things, and taking time to just sit and be still. In the evenings while we waited for my
landlord to get home, we would sit for an hour or two and listen to Ethiopian
music, talking and laughing, while she went through the ritual of making
coffee: washing the beans, roasting the beans over a charcoal fire, pounding
the beans into ground coffee, and then boiling the coffee. This ritual is much more important than
simply drinking coffee; it brings people together, and invites deep conversation. Sharing these evenings with Zenebech and
drinking the fresh coffee were some of my favorite times in Mezezo.
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