Izosh: Stay Strong.

The past three months have flown by.  Full of goodbyes at home, coming to Addis, moving to Butajira and meeting my host family.  Now we are at a turning point in service where we will be sworn in as PCVs on Friday and then move to our sites.

What a whirlwind the past two weeks in Butajira have been.  I am writing this blog in Addis, after a full weekend of finishing technical training, studying, taking the final language exam, savoring every last moment with my host family, and finally a tear-filled and emotional goodbye to my host mom, dad, sister and brothers.

My sister and one of my brothers, on my last night in Butajira.  Savoring every moment and
remembering the wonderful memories we made together!

Our group (G12) was the 4^th and final group to be in Butajira for Pre-Service Training (PST), so saying goodbye was extra hard and emotional for the whole community of Butajira.  I can’t express my feelings thoroughly in Amharic, but even just sitting next to my mom for 20 minutes before the bus left was so powerful and a final hug with tears streaming down our faces expressed how we both felt even though we could not tell each other using words. 

Last weekend, Camp DREAM was a success.  After an evening of biblical rains, which didn’t subside until 6:50 am, prospects were looking a little dreary, but lo and behold we had at the high point of the day 65 kids at our camp.  A highlight of the day was a jeopardy game with WASH (water, sanitation and hygiene), nutrition, and prevention topics, where all 65 children were on the edge of their seats eager to answer each question.  They were so excited to be learning and participating!

Camp DREAM Participants making an aspiration puzzle!

My sister and one of her friends, two of the great camp participants!

Speaking of biblical rains, a very memorable evening was when I was in town with some friends and then it began to rain, then it began to REALLY RAIN.  We were a 30-minute walk from home, and after standing under a store awning for 5 minutes debating the best mode of attack, we wrapped ourselves in our scarves, and then made a run/speed walk for it (Jennie: classic walk jog scenario!).  Running through dirt roads with 6 inches of water, while carrying a heavy bag and getting pummeled with a crazy amount of rain was very memorable! As I arrived home and walked through the gate, there was a good foot of water, and the power was out so I wrung out my clothes by headlamp and attempted to dry off. 

I got to experience an Ethiopian birthday celebration, as my brother turned 10 last week.  We had a full spread of biscuits, bananas, bread, and some fasting pastries that I found in town.  In the Ethiopian Orthodox church people fast, meaning that they do not eat any animal products for about 200 days a year, and the longest consecutive fast is the 40 days leading up to Easter.  Therefore luckily the bakeries in town make baked goods that have no animal products!  We sang Happy birthday in Amharic and English, took a lot of photos, gave gifts, and then talked and laughed as we enjoyed the delicious spread of food.

Flashback to the title of this blog: Izosh.  This a phrase frequently said in Ethiopia, and in Amharic it essentially means “stay strong.” It is used in various situations, including if someone trips or falls, or if someone is tired from doing work all day, among many other situations.  As I said my final goodbye to my family, this word (Izo for males, Izosh for females) was said to us, and to remind us to stay strong amidst the distance and that we will always be family no matter how far away.  My last night in Butajira was truly perfect, spent at home eating dinner outside, playing cards, exchanging gifts, and enjoying a buna ceremony and talking until 10:30 PM.  It is truly surreal that PST is over, and by this time next week I will be moved into my new home, in Mezezo. 

My time in Butajira was truly invaluable.  I learned so much from my host family, about Ethiopian culture, how to make Ethiopian food, how to make buna (coffee), and most importantly I gained incredible friendships and a new family.   The relationships and people-to-people connections I made taught me about hospitality, friendship, and patience.  Saying goodbye was so hard, but another volunteer reminded me of a quote that says that when goodbyes are hard it means that there was truly something meaningful and special.

In other news, these are the new foods I’ve tried recently;

• ·      Shankora (Sugar Cane): Imagine something that looks like bamboo but purplish/pinkish on the outside about 1.5 inches in diameter, and on the inside is lots of fibers that you chew on and suck on, and then spit out.  It is messy, but wonderfully sweet and delicious, as well as crisp and refreshing.
• ·      Kocho  (A “bread-like” thing made from false banana leaf): The pulp is scraped out of the big stem and the leaves, and then are buried in the ground for 3 months and then the very fermented mash is pulled out of the ground, and you can make it into a bread or into a porridge, or a powder.  This is a very unique food, with a distinct and it seems to me, acquired flavor.  No offense but I wouldn’t say it is one of my favorite foods.
• ·      Lawz makyato (Peanut butter macchiato): Essentially a creamy peanut butter and espresso concoction that is AMAZING.  Tip: dip a chocolate cookie in it for full effect!

We read an article from the New Yorker called “Slow Ideas.” I would recommend it; it is about the one-on-one, person-to-person method of diffusion/spreading of ideas as it relates to behavior change.  This is essentially the Peace Corps approach, and recent research has shown it to be successful because behavior change requires social norms to change and first there must be a foundation of relationships and trust.  The first three months while I am at site, along with the entire two years, will focus on relationships and getting to know people, in order to person by person try to make a difference.

Spoiler alert: Next up, swear-in ceremony at the US Embassy this Friday, April 3^rd.  We will all go to the US Embassy dressed in our nicest habesha libs (Ethiopian Cultural clothing).  I was selected to give a speech in Amharic at the Embassy, and I will include the English version in my post-swear-in blog!  Well, I suppose I better go practice; it is very humbling to literally be learning how to read again.   As they say here, “Kas ba kas ink’ulal ba igru yihedal,” which s an Amharic proverb that means step by step the egg walks on its own two feet.  The perfect way to describe how I feel about this speech, and about my entire Peace Corps service.

A last look at Butajira: market day. A beautiful day with colorful fruits and vegetables, hundreds of donkey carts, children running around barefoot eating mangoes, against a gorgeous mountain backdrop.

The Final Countdown and Family Photos

It’s hard to believe that a week from Sunday I will be packing up my things, say goodbye to my host family, and be on my way to Addis Ababa for five days, one of which will be the big day: when we will be sworn in as Peace Corps Volunteers at the US Embassy (on April 3^rd: PS Happy birthday Brooke!).

There are so many emotions I’m feeling currently: excitement for the adventures that lie ahead at my site, sadness for leaving my host family who I love dearly, feeling anxious about being on my own at my site, far away from all of the great friends I’ve made, and a sense of accomplishment/pride for all that I have learned; (the language, about the culture, related to health, and many other topics) and done during the past ten weeks of PST (pre-service training) in Butajira.  

I had the opportunity to go to church (my host family is Ethiopian Orthodox) with my sister, who is 15, last Sunday.  At 7 am (which is 1 o’clock Ethiopia time) my sister and I, dressed in long skirts and beautiful white net’elas (the traditional thin white scarf, with intricate designs/colored patters on the edges) covering our heads and shoulders, walked along the dirt road to the church.

As we walked, we heard the priest chanting in Ge’ez (the ancient language), because it is amplified on a loud speaker so that people who cannot come to church can still hear.  I live about a five to seven minute walk from Church and while lying in my bed at night at in the morning I can hear the priest chanting.  At church, my sister and I sat on a bench outisde, on the side of the church designated for women.  Each woman was wearing a white net’ela, which covered her head.

My beautiful sister and me in our net’elas, at home, before heading to church.

It was so great to have a cultural exchange with my sister, talking about how my church in Loveland, Colorado both differs and is similar to my sister’s church.  I observed people removing their shoes before entering the church, and children coming out of the church covering their mouths with a scarf, because after receiving comunion children cannot speak until they eat something.  After exiting the church and putting on their shoes, the children would  eat biscuits or dabo (bread) and then they could speak. I also saw women, men, and children bowing before the church, kissing door frames, and one by one, kissing a felt-covered bible (when I saw it was coming toward me, I glanced at my sister, and luckily we know each other so well that just with our eyes communicated that yes I should proceed to do as the others were doing).

Sunday was family photo day, for all the other Peace Corps trainees including myself, because we each were tasked with submitting a family photo to Peace Corps on Monday so it can be framed for our families. Let me preface this by saying that on three of the four walls in the living room, there is a framed 8.5x11 photo of my host family with each of the three previous Peace Corps trainees that they have hosted.  So no pressure, but this picture will be hung on the wall for years to come.

My family wanted to do something different for this photo to make it special and unique, so they decided that we would all wear habesha libs, or the traditional Ethiopian white clothing.   At 9 pm, my sister and I were cooking dinner, because my mom was still at the hair salon, where she had been at for a few hours.  (Come to find out an hour later that because of a power outage, there was a serious backup at the hair salon, so numerous host moms were there until late in the evening waiting their turn); A problem I never even imagined! 

·      Side note: This also affects many/most businesses in town; when the power is out, the photo bet (store) cannot print photos, the juice bet cannot make certain hot beverages, and the printers and other electronics do not function.  When you’re working against unpredictable power outages this gives a whole new meaning to being proactive! However there is something refreshing about going to the photo bet, realizing the power is out so you can’t print photos, and then saying chigger yeullum (no problem) I’ll come back tomorrow and try!

Back at my host home; After a 9:45 pm dinner, the whole family was home and it was time for the infamous family photo. We each put on our nicest habesha libs (My Dad and sister helped me pick out a handmade dress, scarf, and belt that are white with a beautiful, colorful, and intricate Amhara pattern).  This traditional dress is worn on holidays such as Christmas and Easter and also on other special events such as weddings—as you can see the “don’t wear white to a wedding rule does not hold true here!) and gathered in the living room.  The only thing left was to wake up my 10 month old baby brother, and get him into a white shirt to go with the family photo theme.   Ten minutes later, we began our 30-minute photo shoot, with one of my kind neighbors as the photographer. We took many photos in various poses and my family loved taking pictures and eagerly asked to see them after each one was taken.  They were so happy with each photo and seeing the huge smiles on their faces as we did a 10:30 pm family photo shoot in our nicest clothes and my beautiful mom’s hair freshly done, is truly something I’ll never forget. For those of you reading who have family photo stories from back home…  take a moment to walk down memory lane! It was fun to compare this experience to memories I have from family photos 15 years ago when my siblings and I were not exactly thrilled to be taking family photos…maybe some of you can relate..).

My family; they are truly wonderful; I love them!

Making “chili” for my host family was another highlight of the past few weeks.  The “chili” included beans, tomatoes, lentils, cumin, chili powder, potatoes, and garlic and was made in a metal pot on a coal stove, outside.  Culturally in Ethiopia families generally eat off the same plate and do not use utensils, so when I explained that in the States my family has soup often for dinner and we eat out of individual bowls with spoons, this sounded quite strange and foreign, and so we compromised and did one bowl of soup for every two people.  My family was so willing and excited to try this new food/flavor/way of eating and were incredibly gracious.  I should add that the power went out a bit before dinner, and so in the dark, via the light of one candle, we ate our “American chili” and laughed and talked in Amharic.  A fun and memorable evening for sure!

My family before eating “chili” and bread by candlelight!

The Final Countdown in Butajira will (hopefully) include:

• ·      Studying for our final language interview/assessment which is next Sunday
• ·      Laughing and talking in Amharic with my host family, while practicing during buna (coffee) ceremonies
• ·      In a group of seven trainees, finish planning, and then host a day camp for 6^th to 8^th graders, including recruiting students, making a budget, and planning sessions and games
• ·      A birthday party that my mom is having for my 3 siblings and me (doing a combined celebration since my brother’s is next week, mine and my baby brother’s is May 5 and my sister’s is June 5) containing the traditional difo dabo (huge circle loaf of bread that is traditionally made and served for birthdays, candles and all!)
• ·      Fresh mango and avocado juice along with good conversations, with friends

Crater Lake (In Amharic; Haroshetan Hayk) with some of my wonderful fellow trainees: Dash, Jesse, Christine, and Anne! A beautiful and peaceful getaway just a 15 minute bajaj (3 wheeled “car”/means of transportation) outside of town.

Another big thank you to all of my friends and family back home; I miss you and think of you often, and truly would not be here without your love and support!!! I appreciate each of you!

A fish out of water

A fish out of water (and on top of a mountain)

That is how I felt for the past week, as I lived in Mezezo, a small rural town (2,220 people), at about (9,200 feet elevation, surrounded by rolling hills and beautiful green trees.  I am the first Peace Corps Volunteer to live in this town, and for a majority of the town, I am the first American they have ever seen, let alone known and lived among.  It is the first time in my life I’ve been not only the minority- but the only person of my ethnicity.  I can’t even put into words the kindness and hospitality of my counterpart (an Ethiopian man who was assigned by Peace Corps to be my mentor and help me in the process of integrating and getting familiar with the town) and the people of Mezezo.

I arrived to Mezezo after a 3.5 hour long bus ride, which included a 10 min pit stop to repair a tire, and a 20 minute lunch break where I managed (thanks to my counterpart) to literally run across town and purchase a mattress, pillow, sheets, and a plastic linoleum-like mat) and make it back to the bus for the last leg of our journey.  The last 15 km was intense to say the least, taking about 40 minutes as we climbed up a winding dirt and rock road (did I mention no guard rails?). After the thrill of this roller-coaster like, adrenaline-filled ride, I arrived with my bags, mattress and supplies in hand, after they were untied  from the roof of the bus.

From the bus we crossed the dirt road and my counterpart jumped a good stride length (keep in mind he is over 6 feet tall) across a large gap/hole to get to the rocky path to my house.  After seeing me staring at it for 30 seconds, and after drawing an impressive crowd of 30 kids, my counterpart informed me that for today, a kind six year old boy would show me the back way that wouldn’t involve a large leap of faith on stiff legs, a hungry stomach, and while carrying a backpacking backpack.

My counterpart and me at the health center!

I tell you this story because the next morning as I left my house (Jennie- I literally met my counterpart at 8:20: his idea), I found a wooden bridge build across the “gorge” (I shall refer to it as this from here on out for full effect)- and found out my counterpart asked a local to build a bridge for me, and he truly did sometime during the night.  Luckily other children and adults who live near me also benefit from the kindness of my counterpart! This is exhibit A of hospitality.  Exhibit B is that every meal I ate at a different person’s home, who doesn’t know me, but prepared a delicious meal, coffee ceremony, and had me in their home like family.

All week due to the new surroundings, language barrier, and meeting dozens of new people a day, I felt like a child being led here and there trying to do and say the right thing and not offend anyone, and making sure to properly greet each person I met.  It was extremely humbling to say the least.

I never lacked anything; water, food, and other supplies were brought to my door (of my studio-like apartment/room).  My room consists of a metal door, a window that opens and has a plastic covering, a dirt floor, and plenty of space for my belongings.  I am truly overwhelmed by how everyone in Mezezo took me in like family- when I offered to pay for the delicious meals that were prepared for me, I was firmly told it is Ethiopian culture to provide hospitality and payment would never be considered.  They truly are so hospitable and genuinely honored that I am here to learn about their culture. 

Visiting the high school one afternoon was quite the experience; with 2 minutes notice, I was told I should introduce myself and my work to the students (did I mention there were about 400 students gathered to listen to me on the lawn, wearing matching school uniforms, were curious looks on their faces?) Oh, and I had to introduce myself in Amharic, the national language of Ethiopia. I won’t forget that anytime soon! Or the time that later that day I also introduced myself in Amharic to about 300 elementary school students; this time with a  microphone.  My script is as follows: Hannah iballalahu, Amerikawit nan.  Ahun, Piskor wist ya t’ena bago fakadagna nan.  Hulat amat Mezezo inorallahu.  Minalbot, sila t’ena ka timert bet gar isarallahu.  Amasaganalo!  ( My name is Hannah, I am American.  I am a health volunteer with Peace Corps.  I will live in Mezezo for two years, and I will work with the school regarding health! Thanks you!

A view of the high school!

Moral of the story/of my week In Mezezo: The power of human connection is incredible.  Spending hours getting to know new people, talking and laughing, sharing a meal and buna (coffee); it made me realize how often I am rushing through life, focusing on my to do list, multi-tasking like a fiend, and through all this, I am missing a lot around me.  I am learning to truly take time to slow down, establish a new pace of life, and go with the flow.    The small things really do make a world of difference: like a group of young children shouting “Hana Hana!” as I leave my house in the morning, or one of the teenage girls from the high school recognizing me and coming to warmly greet me.

I enjoyed fresh honey for the first time, when I visited a farmer’s home, where he grows teff, barley and corn.  I was invited in for honey from their beehives- enjoying the sweet and sticky treat as the mother eagerly encouraged me to “Bi, bi!” (eat, eat!).  After a while, upon insisting I was full, they filled a bag with k’olo (a crunchy, barley/dried chick pea/peanut mixture) to put in my bag for later when I got hungry; Incredible people with such a giving and welcoming spirit!

There is one road in my town, and on either side there is a health center, two health posts (a small building where a lot of education and prevention work is done by the Health Extension workers), a police station, a telecom office, numerous small suks (stores that sell many random items), and homes.  It is a beautiful place, where people walk along the road, dressed in white and colorful scarves, carrying water on their backs, or eucalyptus sticks balanced on both shoulders, while children are laughing and playing with a soccerball made of plastic bags, or with a homemade “car:” a stick with a wheel attached to it.

The main road of Mezezo. See if you can spot the church, in the back, center of the photo, peeking up from the trees!

I couldn’t be happier to call Mezezo my new home for the next two years; I can’t wait to see the relationships and experiences that will come; stay tuned!

To all of you reading; thanks for following my journey; I couldn’t do this without your thoughts and support!